Tidrum Nunnery

The Sacred Site of the Great Bliss Queen

In a remote valley north of Lhasa, hot springs steam in the thin mountain air. This is Tidrum — the primary practice site of Yeshe Tsogyal, the extraordinary woman who was Padmasambhava’s principal consort, the compiler of his teachings, and the mother of Tibetan Buddhism.

While other sites are associated with Padmasambhava, Tidrum belongs particularly to Yeshe Tsogyal. Here she spent years in retreat, achieved the highest realizations, concealed terma treasures for future generations, and ultimately dissolved her physical body into rainbow light. Her blessing saturates this valley — in the hot springs, in the caves, in the very earth.

Yeshe Tsogyal: Tibet’s Greatest Yogini

To understand Tidrum, one must understand Yeshe Tsogyal. Born a princess of the Kharchen clan, she was given to King Trisong Detsen as a consort, who in turn offered her to Padmasambhava as his spiritual partner.

But Yeshe Tsogyal was no passive recipient. She underwent the most rigorous training, practicing in charnel grounds, surviving on minimal food, facing demons and obstacles with unwavering courage. She achieved the same level of realization as Padmasambhava himself — the complete rainbow body accomplishment.

More than this, she served as the compiler and preserver of Padmasambhava’s teachings. Without her photographic memory and tireless effort, much of what we know as Nyingma Buddhism would have been lost. She concealed countless terma (treasure teachings) throughout Tibet and the Himalayas, to be discovered by future tertöns when the time was right.

Yeshe Tsogyal is revered as an emanation of Vajrayogini and Saraswati, and her practice lineage continues unbroken to the present day.

The Hot Springs

Tidrum is famous for its sacred hot springs, which emerge from the earth at various temperatures. According to tradition, Yeshe Tsogyal blessed these waters during her time here, imbuing them with healing and purifying power.

The springs are believed to cure various illnesses, purify negative karma, and support spiritual practice. Tibetans have been coming to bathe here for centuries. Today, simple bathhouses allow pilgrims to soak in the mineral-rich waters.

There are multiple springs of different temperatures:

• Hot pools for therapeutic soaking
• Warm pools for longer meditation bathing
• Cool springs for drinking water

Bathing at Tidrum is not mere physical therapy — it’s considered a practice. Pilgrims recite mantras, visualize purification, and consciously receive the blessing of Yeshe Tsogyal through the medium of the water her presence sanctified.

The Caves of Yeshe Tsogyal

Above the valley floor, caves dot the hillside where Yeshe Tsogyal practiced in solitude. The most important include:

Khandroma Sangpuk (Secret Cave of the Dakini): Her primary practice cave, where she achieved the highest tantric accomplishments. The cave is said to contain self-arisen images and her rock throne.

Upper Retreat Caves: Smaller caves where she practiced specific sadhanas. Some contain rock impressions attributed to her body or implements.

Rainbow Body Cave: Where, according to tradition, Yeshe Tsogyal dissolved her physical form into light at the end of her life — not dying in the ordinary sense, but transcending the physical dimension while remaining available to benefit beings.

The Nunnery

Tidrum is home to one of Tibet’s most important nunneries, maintaining the practice lineage of Yeshe Tsogyal. Before the Cultural Revolution, over 100 nuns lived here. The nunnery was destroyed during that period but has been rebuilt.

Today’s nuns practice the sadhanas associated with Yeshe Tsogyal, particularly:

• Vajrayogini (Dorje Phagmo)
• Tara in various forms
• Tsogyal-specific practices transmitted through the centuries

Supporting the nunnery — through offerings, sponsoring rituals, or simply visiting with respect — is considered a way of supporting Yeshe Tsogyal’s activity in the world.

Practice at Tidrum

Pilgrims to Tidrum typically:

Bathe in the hot springs: Ideally while reciting Yeshe Tsogyal’s mantra or other purification mantras.

Visit the caves: Making offerings, prostrations, and prayers at each site associated with the great yogini.

Circumambulate: Walking the kora path around the sacred sites.

Make offerings to the nunnery: Supporting the nuns who maintain the blessing of this place.

Practice Vajrayogini or Tara: The energy of the site particularly supports feminine wisdom practices.

For female practitioners especially, Tidrum holds profound significance. Here is proof that a woman can achieve the highest realization, that the feminine is not an obstacle but a vehicle for enlightenment. Yeshe Tsogyal’s accomplishment at Tidrum opens the door for all who follow.

Pilgrimage to Tidrum

Getting there: Tidrum is about 130 km north of Lhasa, accessible by road. The journey takes 3-4 hours through beautiful mountain scenery.

Accommodation: Simple guesthouses are available near the hot springs. Some pilgrims stay at the nunnery’s guesthouse.

What to bring: Offerings for the nunnery, modest bathing clothes (Tibetans bathe in undergarments or simple shifts), and warm clothes for the elevation.

Considerations: This is an active nunnery; dress and behave respectfully. The hot springs area can be crowded with Tibetan pilgrims, especially in summer.

Tidrum offers something unique in the landscape of Vajrayana pilgrimage: direct connection with the greatest female master of the tradition, in the place where she practiced, bathed, achieved rainbow body, and continues to bless all who come with devotion.